What Is Raw Silk Fabric? Types, History, Properties, Uses In Clothes

Raw silk is a natural protein fibre cloth woven from silk filaments that keep more of their gum, so raw silk fabric feels drier and holds more body than smooth satin weaves. I explain what raw silk means as a material, how it differs from soft silk, tussar, ramen silk, Korean raw silk and sheesha silk, and how its history grows out of early sericulture and later degumming methods.

I walk through physical and chemical properties, pros and cons, and clear tables that set raw silk against these related fabrics, then show how to recognise real raw silk and how to wash, press and store it safely. I describe how Iqra F. Chaudhry uses 80 g raw silk for shirts, phirans and formal sets, which raw silk outfits work best for women, and how this cloth behaves across different occasions and seasons.

What Is Raw Silk Fabric?

Raw silk fabric is a silk cloth woven from filaments that still hold most or all of their natural gum, called sericin, around the inner protein, fibroin. Technical sources define raw silk as undegummed silk, sometimes called hard silk, while soft silk is the same fibre after degumming removes sericin.

As a material, raw silk keeps more of the gummy coating, so it feels drier and slightly rough, holds a firmer body, and shows lower gloss than fully degummed mulberry silk. Studies on silk composition confirm that cocoon filaments contain roughly 70 to 80 percent fibroin and 20 to 30 percent sericin, plus waxes, pigments and minerals. That extra sericin is what makes raw silk behave differently from smooth satin silks in women’s clothing.

What Are the Different Types of Raw Silk Fabric?

The different types of raw silk fabric follow three ideas: which silkworm produced the fibre, how much degumming happened, and which weave or regional trade name the fabric uses.

By silkworm and origin
- Mulberry raw silk from Bombyx mori is the classic “pure raw silk” used in 80 gram formal sets and phirans.
- Wild raw silks such as Tussar (also written tussah or tasar) come from Antheraea species and have a coarser texture and natural gold tone.
By finish and degumming level
- Hard raw silk: undegummed or lightly degummed fabric that still holds most sericin.
- Partially degummed silk: some gum removed for more softness while still keeping body.
- Fully degummed silk: becomes soft silk (for comparison, not part of raw silk itself).
By weave and trade name
- Plain-weave 80 g raw silk used in many South Asian formal suits and phirans.
- Mikado and other structured raw silks with cross-twill construction for bridal skirts and gowns.
- Korean raw silk: a widely used trade term in Pakistan and related markets for imported raw silk with a refined plain weave, often sold beside “80 g pure raw silk” in the same designs.

What Is the History Of Raw Silk Fabric?

The history of raw silk fabric follows the same early sericulture story as silk in general, then narrows to how people used undegummed silk for structured cloth.

Archaeological and historical work places early silk production in China before 2500 to 2000 BCE, with later evidence of silk use in the Indus Valley region between about 2450 and 2000 BCE.
For centuries, all silk emerged from cocoons as raw silk; degumming with soaps and ash developed later as washing and dyeing knowledge increased.
As weaving advanced, different parts of Asia began to use raw silk for heavier, structured fabrics, while fully degummed silk went into lighter, drapey cloth. Raw silk twills and plain weaves appear in descriptions of Chinese and Japanese formal dress and in European trade accounts.
Modern research on degumming shows how changing sericin content changes tensile strength, whiteness and handle, which supports the current split between “raw silk” for body and “soft silk” for flow.

How Raw Silk Fabric Is Made?

Raw silk fabric is made by rearing silkworms, reeling the cocoon filaments into yarn, and weaving those yarns before or with only light degumming, so that sericin remains on the fibres.

A typical route looks like this:

Sericulture and cocoon production
- Mulberry silkworms eat mulberry leaves; estimates say about 104 kilograms of leaves and roughly 3000 silkworms are needed to produce 1 kilogram of raw silk.
Reeling and raw silk yarn
- After cocoons form, hot water softens the sericin just enough to unwind the filament. Several filaments reel together into a raw silk yarn called greige silk.
Degumming decisions
- For raw silk fabric, mills either skip full degumming or use milder recipes, so a significant share of sericin stays on the fibre.
Weaving and finishing
- Yarns are woven into plain, twill or satin-based structures. For 80 g formal raw silk, plain weave dominates; bridal fabrics such as mikado use dense twills.
- Final washing and finishing balance removal of excess gum with the need to keep a firm, slightly crisp hand.

How From Raw Silk Fabric Women Clothes Were Made?

Women’s clothes made from raw silk fabric use that firm, slightly dry body for outfits that must hold embroidery and shape: long shirts, phirans, two-piece sets, gowns, lehenga-style cuts and straight trousers.

Pattern practice in South Asian and Middle Eastern markets uses raw silk for:

Straight or boxy shirts with high side slits where the fabric keeps a clean column instead of collapsing.
Phirans and oversized kaftan bodies where heavy embellishment needs support.
Wide trousers and culottes that look formal rather than casual because the raw silk hangs in straight planes.

What Are the Properties of Raw Silk Fabric?

The properties of raw silk fabric come from silk’s internal protein structure and from the extra sericin that remains on the fibre.

In general, silk fibres show high tensile strength, good elastic recovery, moisture regain around 9 to 11 percent, and excellent drape, while sericin raises stiffness, lowers gloss and affects dye uptake.

Physical properties describe strength, drape, handle and thermal comfort. Chemical properties describe the fibroin and sericin proteins, their amino acids, and how they react with water, acids, alkalis and dyes.

What Are the Physical Properties of Raw Silk Fabric?

The physical properties of raw silk fabric explain why it feels firm yet still moves.

Based on property tables and degumming studies:

Raw silk keeps a slightly rough, dry surface from the sericin, compared with the smooth, almost glassy feel of fully degummed silk.
Silk fibres in general reach tensile strengths in the range of roughly 4 to 5 grams per denier for Bombyx mori and show elongation at break between about 10 and 23 percent, which gives strength with controlled stretch.
Studies that compare raw and degummed silk show that degumming method and degree shift tensile strength and handle: some enzymatic and acid degumming can raise strength, while harsh soap–alkali recipes can lower it.
Raw silk fabric has more body and flexural rigidity than fully degummed versions, which helps garments keep their outline and support surface work.
Moisture regain in silk supports thermal comfort: silk absorbs water vapour without feeling wet as quickly as many synthetics, and raw silk keeps that behaviour while the surface stays a bit drier to the touch.

What Are the Chemical Properties of Raw Silk Fabric?

The chemical properties of raw silk fabric reflect the chemistry of fibroin and sericin, plus minor waxes and pigments.

Silk’s structural protein, fibroin, is a highly ordered polypeptide rich in glycine, alanine and serine; it forms beta-sheet structures and gives high strength and crystallinity.
Sericin, the outer gum, is another protein with more polar amino acids such as serine and aspartic acid; it is more water-soluble and more sensitive to alkali.
Raw silk has higher sericin content, so it shows slightly different dye behaviour and surface reactivity; degumming research tracks how progressive removal of sericin raises whiteness index and changes tensile behaviour.
Silk is amphoteric: researchers note that it can pick up acid and basic dyes because its side chains have both acidic and basic groups, which helps raw silk and soft silk alike take a wide dye range.

How Is Raw Silk Fabric Used?

Raw silk fabric is used in women’s formal suits, bridal cuts, phirans, kaftans, mens kurtas, accessories and some luxury interiors. Designers choose it when they need a rich look with structure.

In current markets:

South Asian labels use 80 g raw silk for three-piece formal sets, phirans and bridal bases where dense handwork needs support.
Korean raw silk is used for similar silhouettes at a slightly softer handle and different price level.
Raw silk also appears in structured gowns, lehenga skirts, sherwanis and some home items such as cushion covers.

Where Is Raw Silk Fabric Produced?

Raw silk fabric is produced in the same countries that lead sericulture and silk trade, with China and India at the top.

Recent statistics and economic studies show that:

China produces roughly 70 to 80 percent of the world’s silk, often quoted at more than 200,000 metric tons per year in recent estimates.
India is the second largest producer; government and Central Silk Board data report Indian raw silk output rising from about 31,906 metric tons in 2017–18 to 38,913 metric tons in 2023–24 before a provisional drop to about 30,614 tons in 2024–25.
Other countries such as Uzbekistan, Vietnam, Thailand, Brazil and some European nations contribute smaller shares, often in niche or wild silk segments.

What Are the Pros and Cons of Raw Silk Fabric?

The pros and cons of raw silk fabric reflect a trade between structure, natural fibre comfort and dye richness on one side, and price, care sensitivity and snag risk on the other.

Pros and cons of raw silk fabric

Aspect	Pros of raw silk fabric	Cons of raw silk fabric
Look and hand	Natural silk sheen with a slightly matte, textured surface; reads rich without high gloss; holds embroidery sharply.	Slubs and texture may look less “perfect” to people who expect glass-smooth satin; surface can catch threads.
Structure and drape	Higher body and flexural rigidity than soft silk, so shirts, phirans and lehenga shapes keep clear lines and support heavy embellishment.	Less fluid than chiffon or crepe; not ideal for very flowy, bias-cut dresses that need maximum collapse.
Strength and wear	Silk’s tensile strength and good elongation give raw silk strong yarns with controlled stretch; garments take weighty embroideries with less distortion.	Sericin can age and yellow; harsh degumming or washing after garment purchase may change handle and reduce strength if done badly.
Comfort and climate	Protein fibre with good moisture regain and breathable weave; comfortable in many climates when lined correctly.	Raw silk feels slightly drier and rougher on sensitive skin than very soft, fully degummed silk; heat build-up depends on lining and embroidery density.
Dye and finish	Amphoteric silk proteins accept many dye classes; raw silk takes strong, deep shades, which suits formal wear.	Uneven degumming or dyeing can highlight slubs or shift colour; some finishes need expert control to avoid streaks.

What Is the Difference Between Raw Silk Fabric vs Tussar Silk Fabric?

The difference between raw silk fabric and tussar silk fabric is that “raw silk” usually means undegummed or lightly degummed mulberry silk, while tussar silk is a wild silk from Antheraea species with a naturally coarser, more rustic texture and often a golden shade.

Aspect	Raw silk fabric (mulberry)	Tussar silk fabric
Silkworm and source	Cultivated Bombyx mori silkworms fed on mulberry leaves.	Wild Antheraea silkworms that live on forest trees such as Terminalia and Shorea species.
Surface and handle	Smooth filaments with mild slubs; medium body and controlled sheen.	More textured, with stronger slubs and often a drier, rustic feel.
Colour in natural state	Often off-white to pale yellow before dye.	Natural deep-gold to beige tones that many brands keep visible.
Typical use	Formal suits, phirans, lehengas and gowns where a polished yet structured look is needed.	Sarees, regional dress, shawls and some fusion pieces that lean into the earthy look.

What Is the Difference Between Raw Silk Fabric vs Ramen Silk Fabric?

The difference between raw silk fabric and ramen silk fabric is that raw silk is undegummed pure silk, while ramen silk is a trade fabric that shops describe as an 80 g, dyeable raw silk alternative, often a viscose–silk or similar blend priced below pure raw silk.

Product pages and promotions state that ramen silk:

Comes in about 80 grams weight and 43 inch to similar widths.
Is marketed as “raw silk alternative” with strong embroidery performance and full dyeability.
Sits below pure 80 g raw silk in price for the same design in some formal collections.

What Is the Difference Between Raw Silk Fabric vs Korean Raw Silk Fabric?

The difference between raw silk fabric and Korean raw silk fabric is less about chemistry and more about sourcing and finish. Retailers in Pakistan and the region use “Korean raw silk” as a label for imported raw silk with a refined weave, often sold alongside “80 g raw silk” options in the same design.

In practice:

Both are silk-based formal fabrics.
Korean raw silk is framed as imported, slightly lighter or smoother and at a different price point.
80 g pure raw silk versions in the same outfit usually cost more and offer a denser, more traditional body.

What Is the Difference Between Raw Silk Fabric vs Sheesha Silk Fabric?

The difference between raw silk fabric and sheesha silk fabric is that raw silk is undegummed silk, while sheesha silk in South Asian fabric stores usually means a mid-range or luxury silk-rich blend, often around 85 percent silk and 15 percent other fibre, with a smoother, shinier plain weave that does not show the same raw slubs.

Typical pattern from product descriptions:

Sheesha silk pk / cotton silk uses about 85 percent silk with 15 percent “stepal” or similar fibres; it is non see-through and has a shiny look after dye.
Many brands use sheesha silk for two-piece suits with a smoother, more satin-like finish, where the emphasis is glow rather than visible texture.

How To Recognize Raw Silk Fabric?

To recognize raw silk fabric you check fibre feel, slubs, sheen and label together.

Practical checks:

Look for fine, irregular slubs and a subtle, dry sheen rather than mirror gloss.
Rub the cloth lightly; raw silk tends to feel softly rough, not completely smooth.
Drape a piece over your hand; it should fall in firm folds, not collapse like chiffon and not bounce like organza.
Read hangtags; better shops and designers write “80 g raw silk”, “pure raw silk” or “Korean raw silk” for these fabrics.
Compare price with blends; pure raw silk usually sits higher than cotton-silk or ramen silk in the same design.

How to Care for Raw Silk Fabric

To care for raw silk fabric you keep both the protein fibre and the sericin gum safe from harsh chemicals, high heat and rough handling.

Guidelines that align with silk care research and degumming studies:

Follow the care label first; many raw silk formals specify dry clean because of embellishment and construction.
If hand wash is allowed, use cool water and a silk-safe detergent; avoid strong alkalis such as heavy washing powders.
Swish gently rather than scrubbing; do not wring; press water out in a towel.
Dry flat or on padded hangers away from direct sun; high, direct heat can yellow sericin and weaken fibres.
Use low-heat ironing on the reverse with a press cloth, or steam lightly from a distance to release creases without flattening the natural texture.
Store raw silk outfits in breathable covers with space around embroidery; avoid sealed plastic for long-term storage because trapped moisture and lack of air speed up ageing.

How Do You Know Genuine Raw Silk Fabric Is Used in Women Clothes?

To know genuine raw silk fabric is used in women’s clothes you look at brand documentation, fibre behaviour and the price tier.

Checks that help:

Confirm written fabric notes: phrases like “80 g pure raw silk” or “shirt and pants on 80 g pure raw silk” show clear intent.
Inspect the surface for fine slubs and a slightly dry hand rather than high shine.
Compare with the same design in Korean raw silk or ramen silk; if the brand prices one option clearly higher and names it “pure raw silk”, that points to genuine raw silk in that variant.
Check for typical raw silk behaviour over time: slight softening with wear but no collapse into a very floppy drape.

How Does Iqra F. Chaudhry Make Women Dresses Through Raw Silk Fabric?

Iqra F. Chaudhry makes women’s dresses through raw silk fabric by using 80 g pure raw silk as the base for formal sets, phirans and bridal pieces where heavy handwork must sit sharp and structured. Her product pages repeatedly describe raw silk as a favourite base for shirts and pants.

Current examples show how she uses it:

Reh, Zahara, Lisa, Ilana, Mavi, Rae, Poppy, Love Set and many others list “80 g pure raw silk” for shirt and trousers, with organza or chiffon dupattas.
Designs such as Yara and Aleia use 80 g pure raw silk phirans covered in dabka, naqshi, sheesha and gotta work, where the fabric body keeps the embellishment readable.
Some outfits offer both ramen silk and 80 g raw silk variants, with raw silk as the higher tier for people who want maximum structure and silk content.

What Are the Best Raw Silk Fabric Dresses for Women?

The best raw silk fabric dresses for women in this design space are the 80 g raw silk phirans, two-piece sets and three-piece formals that use raw silk’s body with focused embroidery. From current collections:

Reh, Zahara and Ezel: three-piece formal outfits on 80 g pure raw silk with detailed handwork.
Love Set, Rae, Poppy and Lisa: two-piece and three-piece sets that combine boxy cuts or straight pants with dense embroidery and sheesha details.
Yara and similar phirans: oversized phirans with straight pants on 80 g raw silk, used for high-impact events and red-carpet style appearances.

Is Raw Silk for Different Occasions or Seasons?

Raw silk is for different occasions and seasons as long as weight, lining and styling respect the weather and dress code.

For occasions, 80 g raw silk works for receptions, daytime formals, evening events and some bridal functions, especially where artisanal handwork is the focus.
For seasons, raw silk suits mild winters and transitional weather best; in hot climates it stays wearable in loose cuts with light linings and breathable dupattas, while very cold weather calls for layering raw silk under shawls and coats.

What Is Raw Silk Fabric? Types, History, Properties, Uses In Clothes